Rear transaxle seal on '68 110

It's not hard. i usually take both back wheels off first. Then I jack  up tractor and put  the frame on jack stands high enough to be able to lower the rear down.. Next you'll have to disconnect brake linkage and the start to unbolt the rear and lower it down. I put the floor jack under the rear to be able to lower it down easily after I have  the reAr section unbolted. Take the shift knob off and maybe even remove the quadrant so the shifter does not get in the way. You also may want to remove pulley for drive belt also. Air tools are a big help. After the rear is unbolted slowly lower it down  with jack until you can unbolt the axle tube that has the problem. You'll need to remove the hub and snap ring so you can slide off the axle tube. There is an o-ring and then an outer seal which you can get from Mother Deere. If the parts guys are nice they sometimes will print out the pic showing the parts and how and where they go. You can usually pop out the axle seal with a large screwdriver and then clean the area good and maybe use  just a little sand paper in the outer lip to clean up. Then  place the seal on the end and keep it level. To install the seal lay  a piece of wood over the seal and take a large hammer over the wood and pound it in. 1 or 2 hits is all it should take. Take your time and keep the seal square and level if not you'll ruin the seal.  Then install inner o-ring and replace axle tube. I like to wrap a little masking or electrical tape over the grooves of the axle to protect the seal. I also put grease on the tape,seal and tube to help the seal slide in without damage. Then reinstall . Usually takes about an hour to hour and one half.  Like I said when you go to get parts  ask the guys to print out the parts pic and it'll help you tremendously if they could do it for you. Hope this helps it's easier than you think. It takes longer to unbolt everything and get to it than to install the seal. I probably forgot something but these guys will correct me on here if I did. Good luck

 

How are you making out with this ,any luck ?

 

If you are talking about the headlight panel decal, the '68 and '69's had the four legged deer, and '70-'74 had the two legged deer. I have seen some early '70 tractors with four legged deer decals, although I'm not certain that they were legit. 

I will also take this opportunity to Welcome you to the website. I haven't been on for awhile, although I'm planning on getting more involved again on a regular basis, as this site is running over with plenty of good information. I hope to help out on some topics when I can, and looking forward to learning as much as I can. 

Cj

 

Sorry about not telling you to do both axles at the same time that is just a habit that I also do, For the amount of work that you have to do to get to them and as easy as it is to do the repair do them both as they all have said.

Its not the wheels but the hub . The hubs for the early RF's 63,64 have three lugs holding them on but the wheels have 5 lug holes making them interchangeable with the others. If you read thru the Forums JD Elfman has some fantastic stuff about the RF's and there particular differences . The newer hub is on the left is what your 68 has the one on the right is the 63,64 style

 

Look on EBAY . Search John Deere carts. I have one of my own as I got it for a good price and wanted one for awhile but refused to pay the costs that are associated with them. I have pics of mine on here.

JD Elfman has also created a registry on here for them. He is very good at figuring out the mfg date just take a pic and put it up on here. The prices on EBAY are not alway what your gonns pay its what people think they are worth .

I have found that as always "CASH IS KING" when buying something and when your standing in front of someone with it in hand it helps. Good Hunting