Found parts I needed for the HH 100 on E-Bay and carb rebuild kit from a local supplier.They are also available on e-bay. I should just sell you mine as it is become the money pit and I have shoved it into the corner until I feel like getting back to it.
I've been checking Ebay regularly with saved searches. 2 used carbs at premium prices and several 100001 up tanks. Some hero even lists one as for round fender. Smh...I asked here so I could maybe ask enough questions as to the wear and slop in throttle shafts... Corrosion in bowl area... Thread condition where the main screws in carb body....and condition of a tank. I had several carbs from Massey stock but all have corroded or stripped threads for the main. How much for the 112 ? John
I was asking $500 and am losing money at that . The story goes the guy I bought it from had the wrong spark plug in and broke the exhaust valve , found one then had to install an intake valve as that one was bent a bit and holding open. Finally got that in and while adjusting the carb it back fired and broke the cam. Found a cam on E-bay of course it was the wrong one . Waited about 6 months and finally found the right one. Installed it then had to have generator rebuilt and install a voltage regulator. It now charges and runs for about 5-10 minutes and shuts off. It will restart when it cools off with no problem. I replaced the coil and condenser and it still does it. I tryed resetting carb, points, replaced points pushrod , still does it . I need to walk away from it for awhile . I can use parts on my other RF's if it comes to that. I just have a problem tearing her down because I am frustrated with it.
I did right after I saw your post. NLA. A Collector buddy brought me another carb this morning. Its corroded inside and out. Going to soak it in Kero for a few days and see what happens. I had rebuilt another carb from Massey stock yesterday, installed it and the little Indian fired right up, sat there and idled perfect. I noticed gasoline dripping on top of the coil so I gingerly tightened the main nut but it stripped then had lots of gas pouring on the coil. Talk about a mad dash to ignition switch. From what I see there are only about 4 threads for the jet nut to screw into. Time and dissimilar metals rots the threads away. This is the second carb that's done it. I see no way of short of machining a over size jet but to repair them. That's not a bad price for your tractor and if distance wasn't great I would ease your pain. J.
I can understand you saying that about Tecumseh engines. They can be temperamental. I would venture that your cam breaking was the end result of the broken and bent valves not a backfire. I would also bet that the shutoff is a headgasket problem. There are 2 bolts that are slightly longer than the rest and are easy to misplace that create a seal fault Further more these engines are prone to blowing gaskets anyway. Tecumseh remedied it by added Belleville washers to the bolts in later engines. Also if the head has been sanded this adds to the delima. A cold compression test and one as soon as it cuts off may be the telltale, and the chinese coils and condensers we have today can be bad out of the box. I will never venture to convince anyone who has had trouble with one that the HH series engines are good but I've spent hours on HH100s and 120s on Massey LGTs learning their quirks and peculiarities. I found the weak spots to be the 2 versions of Solid State ignitions and somewhat the carb. The throttle shafts wear more than Kohler carbs and mixture adjustments are more sensitive especially if you tune it for slow idling in slow races. Both the high speed and low speed jets affect each other in that respect. I have a Massey 12 that was always the slow race champion years back. I kept it tuned for that purpose to where it would sit all day and " Pop Pop Pop" but wouldn't accelerate above slow idle. Personally I like the HHs. The only downfall I see with them is the scarcity of good carbs and solid state igniton coil/modules. If youre not a purist you can always replace it with a K241 Kohler and I'll take the HH100 with carb of course off your hands ! J.
Thanks I will check the head gasket when I dig it back out ,never really thought of that as it was brand new when I put it back together . Yes I did realize the two longer bolts and will also double check those. I have a few other RF's that are looking for attention right now so that one will wait.Thanks again
Something else you might want to check on your Tecumseh Kyle, and that is the points push rod. If it's the original fiberglass rod, then I'm willing to bet it is swelling up with oil when the engine is hot, and isn't sliding back and forth like it's supposed to. I've had this problem with a couple of mine already. You could buy a replacement from Deere or any Dealer that might have some Tecumseh parts laying around, or if you want to go the cheaper way, cut a 16 penny common nail to the right length, round the sharp edges off the ends, and install. I haven't had any trouble with mine since. Just be careful when pulling the old fiberglass rod out, as it will more than likely be mushroomed on the cam side due to not sliding properly. I'd hate to see you break off any pieces inside the block and have that floating around in your oil pan.
Thanks guys, I had relplaced the points pushrod as mine was broke with a brass unit and a friend told me also to look at that as soon as it shut off but mine was loose . It almost sounds as its shutting off like it gets tight but will turn over when try to restart her. Thanks again for the help