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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
1986 JD 214 / K321

Bought used with a rebuilt engine

Approximately 300 hours on rebuilt engine

2020 Service @ dealer: Replaced Rear Sheave / Replaced deck and power belts / Lubed deck bushings / sharpened blades / Oil change / Adjusted deck height. Minor oil leak from bottom but not significant.

Mid 2021 Performance issue: Runs with no issues without PTO engaged. Engage PTO, and after 10 minutes, engine sputters, engine shakes, engine stalls, and engine recovered when choked but stalled immediately after choke removed. A bit of oil popping from oil tube.

Checked for spark, and when this issue occurs, spark remains constant.

Changed Capacitor, changed coil, changed plug (which had been the incorrect plug), changed points which were only 5 years old, changed plug wire..

Same issues after above was performed.

Early 2022: Changed carburetor.

After carburetor change, mower ran well with PTO engaged, for about 40 minutes and then engine sputters, engine shakes, engine stalls, and engine recovered if choked but stalls immediately after choke removed. A bit of oil popping from oil tube. A slight bit of smoke from exhaust. Engine still starts and runs well without PTO engaged.

Shop where I bought the JD thinks it may be a compression issue.

How do I check compression on a K321 which has an Auto Compression Release Mechanism?
 

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Without telling you the wrong thing you can download a Kohler Manual
I’d post it here but am not that savy with the phone. It’s easier on the computer. I would down load/print out and start there. I really do not want to tell you something wrong then you have another problem.
With everything being done and replaced what does the valve adjustment look like. If they are to close and engine gets hot they expand and cause issues. Had similar issues on my 112RF and realized it was the valves after replacing everything that has been replaced on yours.After resetting clearances on valves it ran great with no issues. Just my two cents!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Without telling you the wrong thing you can download a Kohler Manual
I’d post it here but am not that savy with the phone. It’s easier on the computer. I would down load/print out and start there. I really do not want to tell you something wrong then you have another problem.
With everything being done and replaced what does the valve adjustment look like. If they are to close and engine gets hot they expand and cause issues. Had similar issues on my 112RF and realized it was the valves after replacing everything that has been replaced on yours.After resetting clearances on valves it ran great with no issues. Just my two cents!!!
Replacing fuel pump this weekend, as a local mechanic who works on these relics thinks that is the likely culprit. Cheap fix and then I'll test.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Replacing fuel pump this weekend, as a local mechanic who works on these relics thinks that is the likely culprit. Cheap fix and then I'll test.
Update:
Recently talked with a guy (in person, in his shop) who has been in the mower repair business 30 years, works on a lot of 20 year+ old units, and his suggestion is my issue is related to fuel supply, so I'm doing what he has done to a K321, replacing the old mechanical pump with a B&S vacuum pump. This is step 1, creating the engine plate for connection from crankcase to pump, for vacuum. Photos below are descriptive of the process.

Question - The straight connector is seeded damn tight and won't turn any more into the plate. Is there any need for it to protrude through the plate into the crankcase?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I wouldn't think it would have to thread in any further. Pipe threads seal on the threads. As long as its tight it should be good.Probably the only way to get it to go in more would be a tapered reamer. That would be a pain on something like that.Not much thickness there.
Thanks, It was a tapered reamer but with only about 1/8" of material, it was the best that could be achieved. Sealed it with J-B Weld Cold Weld on the exterior face of the plate, so it's likely a good seal now :)
 

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Thanks, It was a tapered reamer but with only about 1/8" of material, it was the best that could be achieved. Sealed it with J-B Weld Cold Weld on the exterior face of the plate, so it's likely a good seal now :)
I agree with ckjakline that as long as you've tapped all the way through the 1/8 plate and your tube is good and tight in place it should seal fine. You would'nt gain any by tapping through deeper since pipes do seal on the threads unless perhaps you wanted to also put sealer around a short protrusion of the pipe on the inside of the plate also. Your JB Weld should seal it well around the outside of the pipe though so you should be fine.
 
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