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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
Was also able to prime and first coat a set of rear rims today. I used Don's grit blaster last weekend to strip the inside faces of the rims so all I needed to strip today was the inner bands.

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I also disassembled the carb this morning. What a mess. Not sure how, but the bowl was full of dry dirt. The float is split and wasn't even connected to the carb housing. Both butterflies are stuck so I'll soak the whole housing in Marvel Mystery Oil to see if anything breaks loose. I have another carb if need be, but we'll see what happens with this one first before I start pulling stuff off the shelf.

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Discussion Starter · #42 ·
I also got one front wheel taped off and painted.

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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
I think the whole tractor (not the one I'm working on fixing up, but the parts tractor) sat under water for awhile. Verturally every bolt is rusted fast and some of the bolt heads are deteriorated to the point of needing to grind them off. This would explain why there was mud on top of the piston and dirt in the carb bowl and tires. The better tractor didn't have a motor whereas the parts tractor did.
 

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(y) Not gonna disappoint me. I feel like it鈥檚 a better homage to these old workhorses to make em look like new... just as long as they get dirt or grass clippings on them again!
I have the same sentiments about paying tribute to these old work horses and making them look like new again. I can hardly wait to put my '66 110 RF to work mowing when it's all done. I won't mind getting it a little dirty and will enjoy cleaning it up again and see it shine. I fully expect the full floating deck on it to do a better job mowing than my 2003 L110. I'm sure the '66 will bring back a lot of fond memories for me also.
You're doing a great job on the 60 Troy. I see that you have a real challenge with all the rusted parts you have to deal with but I know your talents will have it looking totally great real soon.
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
Well I went a different route...again. 馃槕 I was going to remount the original tires after I had the rims painted, however since this isn't a full blown restoration, I mounted a set of bar treads on the rears. Now to wet sand and start laying more layers of paint. And yes, I will clean the tires!

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Discussion Starter · #52 ·
Rims wet sanded on both faces of each rim and both tires cleaned.

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Discussion Starter · #54 ·
Thanks to our good Friend Don, who hooked me up with some angle steel, I was able to mount a round fender front frame weight to the front of the 60. I think it's going to look pretty good!!!

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Even though it was a direct bolt on, I have a little adjusting to do yet so that the grille will slide front enough for the hood to latch but all and all, I'm pretty excited about the look.
 

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Discussion Starter · #56 ·
The normal 2"x2" angle brackets for mounting this weight to a round fender weren't deep enough to allow clearance for the grille, so I up-sized to 3"x3" steel angle and re-drilled the holes. The brackets tucked up under the grille and bolted directly to the tractor frame utilizing the holes that are used for mounting the "U" shaped bracket for attaching attachments. I should have drilled my frame attachment holes in my new brackets about a 1/4" higher so that the brackets would sit a little lower and allow enough clearance for the grille to pivot front for hood adjustment.
 

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Discussion Starter · #58 ·
Since it looked like it could rain anytime today, all day, I decided to tear into the Tecumseh VH-60 for this tractor. Since the carb is junk, and the motor was locked, my hopes of being able to rebuild this motor wasn't exactly high.

However, I was able to get everything apart rather easy. Once I got the oil pan removed, I was pleasantly surprised to find no water inside the block. The cam and crank were clean. Still not being able to turn the crank, I figured it's either a bad oil bearing end seal or the piston. I've had the piston and cylinder soaking in Marvel Mystery Oil for about two weeks, but after trying to turn the flywheel each day with no prevail, I assumed it had to be the oil bearing that seized.

I couldn't remove the rod bolts due to the position of the crank so I start hammering on the piston using a wooden block. When I broke the piston loose and got it down far enough to turn the crank enough to remove the rod bolts, I quickly discovered that it wasn't an oil bearing seal keeping the crank from turning aa I now had play in the crank. Removed the rod bolts, tapped the rod and piston back up into the cylinder and the crank came right out. A little lubricant and I was able to remove the piston and rod. Turns out, about the only parts that were sticking were the piston and intake valve.

Now to purchase the parts and get this little motor rebuilt and running again!!

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I think with a little bit of honing, I can get away with another standard piston and a set of rings. Pretty sure though, I'm going to have to purchase valve seats. 馃榿

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