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Thanks for the tips Brian!
Someday I will restore the mower deck just for show. I won‘t ever mow with it. I have a 60” Ztrak for mowing.
I am working on the throttle cable now, I have it soaking in Liquid Wrench. Once I can get the wire moving then I will see about pulling it out.
I have seen those steering wheels at Hapco and a few other places. Gonna have to get one because that 80s vintage wheel looks horrible on there!
Hahahaha! Yes, I agree with you on that 80's steering wheel.
 

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Help with a part number please.
My axle seals are dry but the seal around the shaft that has the parking brake on it has been leaking.
I cannot find it on the parts diagram. I don’t see the park brake shaft or assembly at all. ???
I think I found it here. Do you have the 4 speed? Part number AR90860 number 28. I think that's it.
Link to trans page where I found it.

The parts catalog can be hard to navigate sometimes, I think something's in one place and it's in another haha.
 

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Discussion Starter #46
johndeereelfman, that shaft seal thru my local Deere dealer is $12.60 otd.
 

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I can get a complete transmission rebuild kit for around $55.00 + shipping. This includes all seals, housing halves gasket, and I think the shifter detent balls. I have to double check, but I think it's everything needed.
 

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Yes, everything needed for a basic tear down and lube. I recommend replacing everything if you're going to open the tranny. Would hate to see you having to open up the tranny again after it's all painted and installed, just because a step was skipped.
 

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Discussion Starter #49
Does the tranny have to be opened to replace that seal? I figured that the seal would pull out and be pressed back in from the outside. I hadn’t researched the procedure yet.
 

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I don't remember if the brake shaft seal is removed from the inside or outside. My gut tells me it can be removed from the outside but I'm not 100% sure. I just don't want to steer you wrong with incorrect information.

I'll actually be tearing apart a tranny hopefully in the next few weeks to replace all seals, detent balls, and gaskets myself. From what I'm seeing through the shifter hole, I'll have to do a thorough cleaning of all the gears as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #51
I would be very surprised if it couldn’t be removed/replaced from the outside.
We will see. 😉
 

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Discussion Starter #53
UPDATE: The white vinegar barely touched the crud in the fuel tank. But, thanks to the Apple cider vinegar tip from johndeereelfman the fuel tank is looking really good inside. After a week with a couple refills and then filling, shaking and draining 4-5 times with hot water, 👍🏻 looking good.
Thanks johndeereelfman!
 

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Discussion Starter #54
I have the front axle out and degreased. Bought new pivot bushings and steel sleeve for it, they weren’t terribly worn but pretty inexpensive so I decided to replace them.
I am thinking of drilling and tapping the front axle for a grease fitting.
Thoughts on that? Who’s done it?
Is this amount of crud normal for a 54 year old tractor?

6A02B4CE-4B65-45C3-B7DC-3A590635BF46.jpeg 01C1E192-4CB1-4594-A5C0-790FDE1BA0C5.jpeg 98274B7D-4CD8-4608-8D7E-8479A8E85F37.jpeg
 

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I'd actually say doesn't look to bad, look like they may have spilled oil on the refills a few times. Its a natural preservative
Doesn't sound like a bad idea to put a grease fitting in.
Although with it probably going to be semi retired or fully retired to the good life is it worth the extra effort.
 

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UPDATE: The white vinegar barely touched the crud in the fuel tank. But, thanks to the Apple cider vinegar tip from johndeereelfman the fuel tank is looking really good inside. After a week with a couple refills and then filling, shaking and draining 4-5 times with hot water, 👍🏻 looking good.
Thanks johndeereelfman!
Not exactly sure why, but it has to be the apple cider vinegar. Maybe more acidic
 

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Discussion Starter #60
Another update: I am still removing parts and cleaning them up. I removed the variator and the linkage. Neither of the zerks would take grease and the clevis pin was froze/rusted and wouldn’t move. Had to use heat to remove the pin and a hammer and punch with light tapping to remove the steel sleeve from the linkage. Also used steel wool to clean the light surface rust from the sheaves on the variator.

D131C092-0AE8-43FA-82B7-9B2589B55F97.jpeg 5E7FC4EC-DF4A-44D6-AAB3-2AC059B331E3.jpeg CCA70041-39D4-4501-BBE0-EFB89BCDC4B2.jpeg

I didn’t post a pic of my front axle removed, prior to cleaning, so here it is.

23E07207-0A4D-4D42-A327-29EA1043A0CF.jpeg I forgot to take any pics after cleaning it and installing the new bushings.

I also put the “new” to me skinnies on it.

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I was happy to put something back on!
 
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