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Question: For those 140 owners out there, when the PTO is on, what color is the PTO light in the dash? Green, red, amber?
Thank you.
It is red.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 · (Edited)
Picked up a couple items for the 140. Service manual, hydraulic filter, O-ring for the rear end dipstick cap, roller bushing for the hydro linkage and 2 brake return springs, (didn’t have any on it) also a free safety battery cover and that brings me to a question. Did 140s come with a U1 battery? That’s what size the battery cover is for. Mine has a regular car size in it.
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I removed the gas tank, battery and battery tray. Also removed the push button starter w/wiring and the toggle light switch w/wiring that was put in the hole for the PTO light. I was very pleased to find that the factory wiring harness was not cut up. They actually didn’t even unhook the leads from the coil or starter solenoid, just added the new wires from the push button on top of them! I installed the new ignition switch, turned it to start and… nothing. So out came the multi-meter tester. Come to find out that the purple w/white stripe starter solenoid lead was broken at the PTO plug, well all but 3 strands of wire. I cleaned up the all of the terminals with emery cloth, crimped a new (temporary) end on and Wala… the engine is turning over with the ignition switch!
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I need to get a new light switch and lighter and hook those up.

Next is removing the steering column and gear box. A lot of slop in the steering all the way to the front tires.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Well, it was a running & driving tractor. 😁 Took the pedestal/console off and removed steering column/box. There is a lot of slop throughout the whole steering system.
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Disassembled the gear box.
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And degreased it. I still need to sand, prime and paint the rusty column.
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When I pulled the plug from the bottom of the G box the bearing race was in 2 pieces.
Anyone ever see that before?
After finding that I did not clean the ball bearings cause I figured I would be buying a new bearing kit… then I looked them up online… 😳 $60!! 🤯
Anyone have a spare they want to throw into an envelope?? 😄
 

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Question : How do you remove the plastic knobs from the throttle and choke levers?
Thank you.
I have used the back claw of a hammer to remove them. Be careful doing it because they can be brittle.
 

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I haven’t tried to remove those knobs yet, but I did go to Hapco (after seeing your post Mini) to check pricing… and…
View attachment 13223 I will be very careful when I try to remove them!
I have a couple of tips to pass along to you regarding removal of the throttle and choke knobs as well as for a source of the thrust bearings for Ross steering assemblies. I did a complete rebuild on the Ross steering assembly for my 110 during the restoration I did and I'll try to send you a link for the bearings available on ebay first. The seller on ebay has these for $24 a set and the link is for the thrust bearings that will work on JD 140s as well as 110s, 112s, and several other models. I'll try to attach the link for you below.

The method and set up I used for removing the throttle and choke knobs worked out really well for me with no damage to the knobs. I was able to remove the knobs so I could get my throttle and choke levers cadmium plated and they fit back on the levers just fine afterward since I was able to remove them without any damage. Since I have several photos of my set up and removal method, I'll send this as a separate thread as soon as I can in the Tips and Short Cuts section.

If all goes well I'll attach the link to the Ross steering assembly thrust bearings below.

 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
Picked up a few more small parts for the 140.
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Nylon bushings for the 3 hydraulic levers. The originals seemed to be in surprisingly good shape. Bushing and roll pin for hydro drive lever. A couple electrical connectors, a washer and some o-rings.
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Also pins and cotter pins for the top end of the lift levers linkage.
 
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