[tsb3]

I have always liked the looks of the 140s, particularly the ones with the headlight panel. JD did such a nice job with the front end and those round headlights, IMO. The 140 is a bit of a blend between my round fender, with the RF style hood and my 400, with the one piece fender pan. And being JDs first hydro-drive GT is pretty cool.
For the past couple of months I’ve been looking for 140s.. (just seeing what’s out there) 😉
I have my eye on an H3 a couple hours from home. The owner says that it runs and drives good. The hood looks very good with no damage. Headlight panel is good, tires look good, although one front is an odd ball. Has the rear PTO and a mower deck but no mule drive??
The negatives are non original seat, fenders have half dozen holes drilled in them (each side 😳) and the paint is really faded.
Based on what you now know about this tractor, what would be a fair price to pay? I know, tough question.
Oh yeah it‘s a 1971. I was kind of looking for a 72-74 since they have all of JDs “improvements”.

I told my wife that I have 3 JD carts and only 2 tractors to pull them. She said “ And yet there is only 1 of you to drive them”.

Thanks for your wise and educated replies! 😁

 

[Kster526]

If it’s what you want go for it, Price is not important and you can make it your own as long as it’s a good running tractor at a fair price.
Keep us posted

 

[Chaser]

I totally agree on the 140, love them. But since I got the 316 this summer, prob won't get one any time soon. Prices around here vary between 500 and 1500 it seems.

 

[tsb3]

Around here seems like the majority are 750ish to 1400 when you see them. There is an H1 restored couple hours from me for $2000 and a non running H3 for $475 missing the headlight panel and some chunks out of the hood.

 

[Kster526]

475 does not sound bad .
You can find decent head light panels although they too seem to have sky rocketed in price . If it runs good the other stuff is simply cosmetic
and easily repairable.

 

[tsb3]

Question: Are the headlight panels the same from 110, 112, 120 & 140?
I was looking on the parts website and if I am reading it correctly, they are except maybe 68. AM 32325.

 

[Kster526]

I know there are interchangeable but do not have access to the part numbers for exacting a correct answer
Sounds like you've done your research already. A few of our part number guru's may be able to help out

 

[Brandan Smoker]

Question: Are the headlight panels the same from 110, 112, 120 & 140?
I was looking on the parts website and if I am reading it correctly, they are except maybe 68. AM 32325.

Yes, they are all interchangeable. The difference between them is the 1968 panel used the 4 legged deer decal (The decal is slightly smaller in size than the later 2 legged version), It was used until early 1969. Then the 2 legged deer bezel came out in mid year 1969 and was used until 1974.

 

[tsb3]

Thanks Brandan!
Another question: do the mule drive & mower decks from the 200 and 300 series up to 317 work on the 140 Or just 110, 112, 120 & 140?

 

[Leonard VanCamp]

A mule drive from a 120, 140, 300, 312, 314. both 316's, 317, 318, 322, 330 and 332 will work, you just have to make sure you have the right draft arm length for the deck you are planning on using it on. The 110, 112, and 200 series don't have the same style of "mule drive". on those models there is just a draft plate, the pulleys for the mower belt are mounted on the tractor.

 

[Kster526]

Mule drive/mower decks from a 120,140, and the 300 series are the same. Front mount PTO
The 110,112 and 200 series are side mount from the engine and share mower decks.

 

[tsb3]

Thank you Leonard and Kyle!!
I am going to look at a 72’ H3 tomorrow evening. Don’t even have a tractor yet and already thinking about a deck… 🤔

 

[Kster526]

It pays to think ahead...………………….

 

[tsb3]

Well yesterday after work I made a 2 hr 39 minute drive to check out a 140. I backed the trailer into my driveway at 11:20 pm last night, with a 1972 140 H3 on it. I will take some pictures tomorrow.

 

[Chaser]

Sweet! Hope ya got a good deal. Can't wait for the pics.

 

[tsb3]

Got it out for some photos today.

This engine runs so quiet, not even a tick to be heard. Engine appears to be original and untouched. Oil is clean. Hydro has a lot of creep so that will need adjusting. It is in need of some maintenance and tlc. The seat is pretty much gunk.

I know your admiring this custom crafted sleeve hitch… 🤭 PO said he plowed and disc a couple gardens with it for the past 3 years.

You’ll notice a couple of extra switches on the dash. The lights are the toggle up next to the pto. The ignition switch stopped working so instead of replacing it, must have been easier to drill a hole in the dash next to the throttle and add a push button to start the engine! 🤯 Also in this photo you’ll notice that the deck height adjuster is missing.

This is what all of the custom wiring looks like. Think I’ll be rewiring this like I did to my 110. Although, with lights, lighter, amp gauge and pto it will take a bit longer.
The 140 does run and drive good, I think it‘s a good start. 😎

 

[tsb3]

Almost forgot this…

The PO had the fender pan off a couple yrs ago for a rattle can refresh (I am not knocking rattle can finishes, just this one) and removed the rear pto cause he didn’t use it. It’s all there including the nuts and bolts.

Also threw these in, only 8”ers.

 

[Chaser]

I like it! Looks like a good project.

 

[Kster526]

Nice piece should be a good addition. Mechanically sound trumps good looks. Can always do that later. Even came with the rear PTO that is a nice extra add on . Congrats

 

[tsb3]

Thanks fellas!
Now I need to pick some brains on how exactly the “engine disconnect” ( left pedal) is supposed to work.? And how exactly does the trans or rear end disconnect (knob in front of the seat) is suppose to work?. That will not turn so it’s soaking in Kroil.