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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So in my regular CL and FBM scanning I've seen a few 300 series tractors that look "interesting". While I don't really need anything larger than my 212 part of me says "why not".

If you were looking for a 300 series machine what would you be looking for/what were the options that were available?
 

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I like the Yanmar powered 300 series 322,330,332. Those engines run a very long time before needing a rebuild. 318's are also excellent tractors. Some options are rear PTO's and 3pt hitches.
 

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Don that is a great looking team you have assembled my friend.
Have not had time to even look at mine right now. The zero is making grass time so much easier and the other member s are not being used and are not happy with me.
I am thinking the 208 will be going up for sale as well as the 210 and possibly the 214 with the roto tiller that is not even home yet. Life is in the way right now. I need to bring the two home from the fair grounds so they are here.
Don very nice and a little bit jealous right now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Love the photos @truck21!

What makes the one your favorite?
Do they all have power steering and 2 hydraulic circuits for the lift/blade angle (I think that is the right term)?
If you run a blade on the front and a 3 point on the back do you need a 3rd hydraulic control or do you have a way of switching the control from the front to the 3 point?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
for the right price my 300 an attachments is up for sale
I'll keep that in mind @backwoods. Unfortunately my budget probably isn't close to the "right price" :) I'm hoping that at some point I'll find the right deal on one that is a good runner with transmission issues and another good deal on one with a shot engine but a good transmission. Of course I'd want the power steering, multiple hydraulic points of control, 3 point hitch and every attachment ever made....

A guy has to dream right?
 

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Love the photos @truck21!

What makes the one your favorite?
Do they all have power steering and 2 hydraulic circuits for the lift/blade angle (I think that is the right term)?
If you run a blade on the front and a 3 point on the back do you need a 3rd hydraulic control or do you have a way of switching the control from the front to the 3 point?
I've done a good bit of work to make this one what it is. Alot of cleaning
, painting and such. Plus I added the 3 point hitch 26 inch rear tires with 18 inch tires up front. And if that wasn't enough I swapped in a 420 rear so I have differential lock and 2 speed rear.
As for the hydraulics you don't need a 3rd spool of hydraulics but I added a lockout value so I can lock the 3 point when using the blade.
 

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I've done a good bit of work to make this one what it is. Alot of cleaning
, painting and such. Plus I added the 3 point hitch 26 inch rear tires with 18 inch tires up front. And if that wasn't enough I swapped in a 420 rear so I have differential lock and 2 speed rear.
As for the hydraulics you don't need a 3rd spool of hydraulics but I added a lockout value so I can lock the 3 point when using the blade.
A real fine looking group of 318s you have there Don. I really admire all of the thought, planning, and custom fabrication work that went into all of those great mechanical modifications that you've accomplished. (y)(y)!!!
 

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As for the hydraulics you don't need a 3rd spool of hydraulics but I added a lockout value so I can lock the 3 point when using the blade.
Don, can you describe how the lock out works? I am studying H2 vs H3 options for my newly acquired 316 and I like the idea of the deck being isolated plus elsewhere (It may be hard to find) I had saw a discussion where someone used the deck lift cylinder to control a sleeve hitch. I also believe it normally would control a 3-pt as well so same logic.

With the H3 you could control both functions of the blade and still control the sleeve hitch or 3-pt. A lock out might be acceptable alternative though.

I have so much to learn!
 

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It’s hard to see, is a threaded valve like setup that you simply twist open/closed? I’ll try some searches online too.
Thanks!

Edit: you that’s how they work in general. Video



View attachment 12892 View attachment 12892

Once you close the valve it can no longer operate so all of the pressure goes to the front hydraulics.
 
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