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After looking at your wiring, I think you are good. I do agree with Kerry and you aren't getting a good ground. As said, the electricals need to be mounted to bare steel, the battery tray needs to be mounted to bare steel, and the motor needs to be mounted to bare.

When Deere painted these tractors, the frame, pedestal, battery tray, foot rests, and a piece of thin steel that was cut to the same size of an oil pan, were all pre-assembled in bare metal and painted afterwards. That is why when you take these old machines apart, you'll find bare metal (not even primed) under all of these mounting points.

I should also add that the key switch needs to be grounded as well. I usually scrape the paint away from the backside of the pedestal so you won't see it.
 

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Solenoid will always have current on the infeed terminal because it's wired directly to the battery. The outfeed side will only have current whenever the key switch is calling for the Solenoid to open and allow current to pass through to the other electricals.
 

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Discussion Starter · #86 ·
Hello:

I鈥檝e made certain that I have metal to metal on all the areas mentioned in previous replies. So, I tried turning the key to the start position, and again, nothing happened. To see what would happen, I used a piece of wire and touched one end to the positive pole on the battery, and the other end to the middle (open) pole on the starter solenoid. The starter solenoid 'clicked', and the starter generator started spinning. I don't know what that proves, other than that the starter solenoid will 'click' and the starter generator will spin. I have no idea why nothing happens when I try using the starter switch. It's a new starter switch - is there a way to test it, to see if could be the problem?

Thanks.
 

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At this point, you need to track down the 鈥渙pen鈥 in the circuit. Grab a test light or a meter. Put it on the stater terminal on the key switch and turn switch to crank and verify power, then go to the neutral safety switch, then pto safety switch, then to the small post on starter solenoid.
 

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Are you wiring up the pto and neutral start safety switches?
 

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Hello:

I鈥檝e made certain that I have metal to metal on all the areas mentioned in previous replies. So, I tried turning the key to the start position, and again, nothing happened. To see what would happen, I used a piece of wire and touched one end to the positive pole on the battery, and the other end to the middle (open) pole on the starter solenoid. The starter solenoid 'clicked', and the starter generator started spinning. I don't know what that proves, other than that the starter solenoid will 'click' and the starter generator will spin. I have no idea why nothing happens when I try using the starter switch. It's a new starter switch - is there a way to test it, to see if could be the problem?

Thanks.
I'm not sure if grounding of the battery box/ tray was one of grounding points to check on in previous threads. This would also need to be well grounded for the solenoid to have a good ground in addition to the solenoids' ground to the battery box. The battery box will need good metal to metal contact through the sides of box to the pedestal or removal of paint under contact areas of the bolts that fasten the battery box to the pedestal. Just a thought on an area of grounding to check.
 

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Discussion Starter · #90 ·
Hello, all:

The Kohler is turning over! The issue seems to have been with one of the PTO kill switch connections. I used a jewelers file to gently re-clean the connections, and the next time I tried the key, it started cranking. I can't say how pleased (relieved) I am that it's working! I haven't tried starting the engine yet. About all that I've got to do before I try starting it is to verify I'm getting a spark, remount the gas tank, and put some gas in it. I'll let you know how it goes.

Thanks for the tips.
 

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Discussion Starter · #91 ·
Hello, all:

I got the engine started today! I didn't think I'd get it done today, as after I put gas in the tank, and opened the stop-cock on the sediment bowl, gas started dripping (almost running) out of the top of the carburetor. I closed the stop-cock, and started wiping up all the gas. The dripping lasted for about five minutes. When it finally stopped dripping, I decided to turn the key to see what would happen. The engine started running! It started right up, and it ran for a minute or two, I guess until it used up the gas in the fuel line. I decided to re-open the stop-cock to see what would happen, and there was no more gas dripping. My guess is that the fuel bowl was stuck, and gas was flooding into the carburetor? I'll have to watch it for awhile, to verify that it isn't going to happen again. Thoughts?
 

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Discussion Starter · #93 ·
I opened the stopcock again today, and gas started running out of the carb again. So, I鈥檝e got to pull the carb and open it up. I recall making sure the float was sitting level before I closed it up. But, something is not right.

I have a new question. I installed new belts. I tried multiple ways to get them both on. I tried what the Service Manual said to do. I finally removed the idler pulley, and the belts are on. However, I can鈥檛 get the idler pulley back on! Is there a trick to getting the new belts installed?
 

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Discussion Starter · #95 ·
I opened the stopcock again today, and gas started running out of the carb again. So, I鈥檝e got to pull the carb and open it up. I recall making sure the float was sitting level before I closed it up. But, something is not right.

I have a new question. I installed new belts. I tried multiple ways to get them both on. I tried what the Service Manual said to do. I finally removed the idler pulley, and the belts are on. However, I can鈥檛 get the idler pulley back on! Is there a trick to getting the new belts installed?
 

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I opened the stopcock again today, and gas started running out of the carb again. So, I鈥檝e got to pull the carb and open it up. I recall making sure the float was sitting level before I closed it up. But, something is not right.

I have a new question. I installed new belts. I tried multiple ways to get them both on. I tried what the Service Manual said to do. I finally removed the idler pulley, and the belts are on. However, I can鈥檛 get the idler pulley back on! Is there a trick to getting the new belts installed?
Congrats on getting your engine running and you've done a really nice job on your restoration. (y)

While you have the carb apart double check your float setting. My original 110 & 112 1967 edition service manual states,
'With the float resting lightly on float valve, the distance between the float and machined surface of the carburetor body should be 13/64 inch. To increase or decrease the distance, bend lip on float. Dimension should be made on free end of float (opposite valve seat). ' The photo in the manual shows them placing a 13/64 inch drill under the float and against the machined surface of the carb body. Another possibility would be some debris under the float needle or beside it that may have been hanging it up off of the valve seat. Good luck with the carb, I hope this info helps.
 

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Congrats on getting your engine running and you've done a really nice job on your restoration. (y)

While you have the carb apart double check your float setting. My original 110 & 112 1967 edition service manual states,
'With the float resting lightly on float valve, the distance between the float and machined surface of the carburetor body should be 13/64 inch. To increase or decrease the distance, bend lip on float. Dimension should be made on free end of float (opposite valve seat). ' The photo in the manual shows them placing a 13/64 inch drill under the float and against the machined surface of the carb body. Another possibility would be some debris under the float needle or beside it that may have been hanging it up off of the valve seat. Good luck with the carb, I hope this info helps.
I'm not quite sure which idler pulley you're referring to. Are you referring to the secondary belt idler pulley? It would seem that if the spring was disconnected to the secondary idler pulley that it should be fairly easy to get the secondary pulley back on. Since it sounds like you're installing new belts is your transaxle bolted back into the front most mounting holes? If yours had been moved back toward the rear to take up belt stretch in the past, check to see if this is the case since having the transaxle in the rear most holes would place the position of the transaxle further back and put more tension on your new belts. I'm still in the process of painting parts and doing some reassembly on my '66 110 and I haven't installed my new belts yet but do recall reading this suggested procedure in the service manual. I hope this helps, let us know how it's going for you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #99 ·
Oh, boy. Yes, the transaxle is mounted in the back holes. I had read about that in the service manual, and wondered about it. This explains a lot. Thanks.

Well, more re-work!
 

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Oh, boy. Yes, the transaxle is mounted in the back holes. I had read about that in the service manual, and wondered about it. This explains a lot. Thanks.

Well, more re-work!
The readjustment of the transaxle position should'nt be very hard to do. The manual shows which bolts that need to be removed or loosened to be able to shift it forward. These will include the bolts through the seat spring and the rear most bolts in the fenders, possibly the center bolts in the fender also but I'm not sure on those, just refer to the photo in the manual. It might be a good idea to remove the shift lever plastic quadrant/cover also when shifting the transaxle forward. Let us know how it goes.
 
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