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Discussion Starter · #61 ·
Thanks. If it wouldn’t be too much trouble, could you or someone post close-up photos of the governor assembly on your 110? I didn’t take enough photos before I disassembled it for cleaning and paint stripping. It sort of fell apart as I was taking it apart. The diagrams I have are not very clear. Thanks.
 

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Here are a couple photos of the governor on my 1963 110 that I am currently working on. Hopefully these help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #64 ·
Hello:

I have a question about two thin metal 'bands' which are located on the bottom and middle rings of the piston to my Kohler K181 engine. I removed the old rings, and found that behind the rings are two bands, which I haven't found any mention of in the Kohler Service Manual. There aren't new bands included in the package of new rings I bought. The bands don't appear in photos of Kohler pistons. I'm wondering if I should leave them in place, or remove them?

Thanks.

Tire Automotive tire Wheel Light Tread
 

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Discussion Starter · #66 ·
I ordered a new set of Kohler rings, and these 'bands' are not part of that package (Kohler provided installation instructions with their rings - nice!). I had also ordered a new piston and rings from ISaveTractors. Those bands are aren't part of the package from ISaveTractors, either. I was surprised to see them behind the old rings.
 

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Discussion Starter · #67 ·
Hello. How can I tell if my Delco Remy starter/generator spins right or left handed? Right now, it’s not spinning at all. It seems to have a short somewhere. It’s Model 1101970.

I’ve included a recent photo of the engine. It’s just about ready to go, but the starter isn’t spinning. It arcs when I hook up a battery to test it.

11460
 

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Sounds like there might be something not wired correctly. I'll try to remember to post instructions on how to test the starter/generator tonight after I get home from work. The starter/generator should be turning counterclockwise.
 

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Discussion Starter · #69 ·
In looking inside the body of the generator, the wire that runs from the stud labeled ‘A’ to the field coil is not insulated (at least not for the first inch or so). If that exposed wire is touching the wall of the generator body, would that be shorting it out? I used jumper cables, and connected the negative side of the battery to the generator case. When I touched the positive cable to the ‘A’ stud, it arced - big spark! I’m guessing that indicates it has a short. What do you think about that exposed wire?
 

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Don't know if this will help you until I get home tonight, but maybe you can tell or see how the wires are.

11461


11462
 

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Discussion Starter · #71 ·
Thanks for posting the photos.

I opened it up again, and checked the internal wiring. I adjusted the connector for one of the brushes. I did the various tests using a multimeter. Nothing failed in those tests. So, I put it back together, and did the bench test. It turns! Tomorrow, I’ll put it back on the tractor, hook up the electrical, and turn the key. If it turns, you may be able to hear me holler all the way from Blair, NE!
 

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Discussion Starter · #73 ·
Hi Fergus,
I see that you're restoring a '66 110 and I'm also in the process of restoring a '66. I now have mine disassembled down to the bare frame except for the trans which is ok and not needing any work right now. Kster526 is correct that you need to drive out the roll pin from the bottom of the variator handle hub casting and is leading you in the right direction. The hole for it may be covered with paint/dirt but you'll definitely find it there on the bottom of the lever hub casting . There's a 3/16" diameter roll pin that must be punched upward all the way into the lever hub casting Before you'll be able to remove the lever/handle. The roll pin is 1 1/4" long and the lever hub casting has enough of a hollow/void inside it to allow the roll pin to be punched all the way inside it. Be sure to use a good quality tool steel drift punch that's long enough and enough undersize to pass through a 3/16" diameter hole, only a few thousandths smaller is good but avoid using a pin punch any smaller than necessary. The roll pin in mine was in real tight and not easy to remove so you'll need a good heat treated pin punch to remove it. Also be careful to keep your pin punch well centered on the hole when driving it in. Once I got the pin driven through the hub I used a gear puller to remove the lever hub which also has a woodruff key for the variator shaft. The lift lever hub has no roll pin in it but I needed to pry it loose with 2 large screwdrivers and use a gear puller to remove mine.

To remove the button for the variator or these lift lever shaft be sure to heat the end of the button with a propane torch before putting a lot of torque on it to unscrew it. These were Locktited on when assembled at the factory and if you don't preheat it you might break the end of the button spring rod off in the end of the button. You don't need to get it extremely hot to soften the Locktite but plenty warm. I planned on replacing both of my rubber handle grips so I removed both of these before heating the buttons. If you're needing to save your rubber grips take care of course when using the torch to heat the button and you'll want to shield them from the heat. I clamped my lever button in a bench vise with aluminum jaws right after I heated it and was able to unscrew the button easily after applying the heat.
I hope this info helps and good luck with all of your restoration efforts. I'll be posting some photos of the present status of my teardown soon. I just dropped of a big batch of parts for my 110 for cadmium plating which I hope will be back by the end of the month. I can now finally get to work on paint prep work on my frame. It's a long term project for me including a full engine rebuild but I'm enjoying the journey and I hope you are enjoying your resto journey as well.
Hello:

I've got a few new questions. When the starter switch is set to 'Run', the generator light is on. Is that correct? When I measure the voltage on the input side of the starter solenoid, my multimeter shows 12.5 going into it, whether the starter switch is set to 'Off', 'Run', or 'Start'. Is that correct - there's always 12.5 volts going into starter solenoid? When I use my multimeter to check the voltage coming out of the starter solenoid, it reads 6.5 volts when the starter switch is set to 'Run' or 'Start'. Is that correct?

I'm stuck. Nothing happens when I turn the key, and I'm using a new battery, starter switch, starter solenoid, and voltage regulator.

Thanks.

Fergus
 

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Can you post a picture of how you have things wired? Is the wiring harness factory original or have you rewired everything yourself?

As for the generator light, it should only light while having the key switch on the start position. After you release pressure and the key switch is in the run position, the generator light should go out unless you are running the motor at low RPM's. At low RPM's, the generator light is designed as a warning light to let you know that the motor is running off of full battery power and the motor isn't turning fast enough for the generator to charge the battery.
 

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Discussion Starter · #75 ·
I can try to get decent photos, but you know how tight the space is.

I used most of the original wiring harness. I didn’t change any of the wires that are part of piece that plugs into the back side of the starter switch. I did remake the cable that connects the outbound side of the starter solenoid to the armature side of the generator, and the brown wire that connects the outbound side of the starter solenoid to the post on the top back side of the voltage regulator.

I’ll try to get photos.
 

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Here’s a photo showing a lot of the electrical components before I reinstalled the battery box on the pedestal.

View attachment 11545
I don't know if you've already checked your grounding but I've read that the pedestal must be well grounded to the frame as well as the engine block to the frame. I would think this would also apply to the battery tray, solenoid ground to that and perhaps the coil to the engine block but I'm not sure on those. If there's a heavy coat over paint between points that need to be grounded there may possibly not be good enough ground at one of those points.
 

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Discussion Starter · #78 ·
I'll try to get a better photo than that. Please note the wiring for the neutral start switch was disconnected when I bought my '66 110, and I haven't tried to reconnect any of those wires or fittings.

I want to be certain that I understand your reply. Are you are saying that the generator light should not be lit when the engine is not running, and the key is in the 'run' position? I haven't been able to try starting my engine yet. But, when I move the key to the 'run' position, the generator light comes on, and it stays on until I move the key back to the 'off' position. I thought that might not indicate there is an electrical problem; I thought it might only be indicating that I'm drawing current from the battery. But, I think you are saying that if you move your key no further than the 'run' position, your generator light does not come on. Are you saying that your generator light does not come on at all until you reach the 'start' position. Is that correct?

Do you (or anyone else who reads this) know if it's incorrect for there to be 12.5 volts at the inboard side of the Starter Solenoid, even though the key is off? I'm not sure if that's normal, or if that indicates there is a problem with the wiring. The inboard side of the Starter Solenoid is connected directly to the battery, so there may always be 12.5 volts at that point of the circuit. But, I'd like to know for certain if that is normal or not.

Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #79 · (Edited)
I don't know if you've already checked your grounding but I've read that the pedestal must be well grounded to the frame as well as the engine block to the frame. I would think this would also apply to the battery tray, solenoid ground to that and perhaps the coil to the engine block but I'm not sure on those. If there's a heavy coat over paint between points that need to be grounded there may possibly not be good enough ground at one of those points.
Thanks for the reply. Grounding - could the solution be that simple? There is a lot of paint under the 'feet' of the Starter Solenoid. There are three coats of primer, three coats of color, and three coats of clear. Before I restored it, the battery box was really rusty. I wanted to be certain it was well protected, so yes, it has a lot of paint on it. Is there a way to test the grounding of the Starter Solenoid using my multimeter? It doesn't 'click' when I turn the key to the 'start' position. I think I've found a video explaining how I can test for that. I'll go scrape paint from under the feet of the Starter Solenoid, and try again.
 

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With the key switch in the off position, the generator light should Not be lit. When in the run position (Without motor running) the generator should be lit because you are drawing current from the battery. When holding the key in the start position, the generator light should go out.

After starting the motor and with the key switch in the run position, the generator light should only come on if the motor isn't turning enough RPM's for the generator to charge the battery. In this case, just bump the throttle up some and the light should go out. Another instance would be, if you are running the tractor and it all of a sudden shuts off, the generator light will come on to let you know that you are drawing current from the battery. If you turn the key switch off, then the light will go out.

The generator light is a warning signal to let the operator know that they are using battery current and not generator current. Drawing battery current only for a long period of time will eventually drain the battery.
 
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