1966 Round Fender Tear Down - Variator Lever, Bearing, and Hub Removal

Hello:

Can someone explain to me how to remove the variator lever, bearing, and hub from a 1966 JD 110 Round Fender?

I purchased a 1966 JD 110 Round Fender in April of this year. This is my first lawn and garden tractor restoration. What got me interested was TV shows like 'FantomWorks' and 'Overhaulin', where old cars are brought back to better than new condition. I don't have the space, the tools, or the skills to handle a project of that scale, but a vintage lawn tractor is something I think I can handle. I've been bringing parts home from my storage unit, and taking them down to bare metal. I've found a lot of rust and some pitting under the layers of paint, but nothing too bad. Media blasting has removed the rust. I had to fix a small crack in the front of the hood, and I've taken dents out of one of the hood supports, the grill, and one of the fenders, and I've used some filler where necessary. It's been fun, so far. I've given each part three coats of primer, and three coats of color. Clear coat will be added before reassembly. I'm gradually getting an entire tractor in the lower level of my house (see the attached photo). I've gotten everything removed on the top of the frame, except for the pedestal. I can't figure out how to remove the variator lever assembly.

Can someone help me out with how that is done?

Thank you.

 

I have both the Service Manual, and the Parts Manual. What I want to do is remove the Speed Control Lever, the Hub, and the Housing from the side of the Pedestal. I don't see anything in either manual that describes the steps required to remove or disassemble these parts. I don't want to start beating on the end of the shaft that is inside the housing, unless that's how the hub and the shaft are disconnected/disassembled.

What am I missing?

Thanks.

 

Hello:

First - Thank you for the reply.

Second - I saw a photo of your '66 110 that you posted on a different thread - it looks so nice! Do you have a photo album posted somewhere of the restoration?

Third - Was part of your reply cut off? What I'm seeing starts with 'roll pin on bottom to remove entire handle'. 'Roll pin' is another name for 'Spring Pin', so I think you're directing me to the Spring Pin, which is labeled as #21 on page 204 of the Service Manual, where Figure 20 shows an exploded view of the Variator Linkage Components. Per the exploded view, the Spring Pin is located inside the end of the Speed Control Shaft (labeled as #19), the end of which rests inside the Lever Hub (labeled as #30). I didn't notice a hole in the bottom of the Lever Hub, but maybe it is covered over with paint. I'll look closely at the bottom of the Lever Hub this weekend when I drive out to where I store the rest of my 110.

Sorry if this is not a good question, but how do I access the Spring Pin? Is your reply telling me that the Speed Control Handle has to be disassembled to reach the top of the Spring Pin, so that it can be pushed out the bottom of the Lever Hub?

Please let me know if I'm way off the mark, and it's not the Spring Pin I have to remove in order to remove the Speed Control assembly.

Thanks, again.

 

Thank you so much for your reply! The information will allow me to keep moving forward, hopefully without any breaking anything.

I'm curious about the cadmium plating. I read up on it just a few moments ago, but I still have questions. Were many of the metal parts cadmium plated when they originally came from the factory? If so, which ones? I'm sure I burned through any plating that existed on the parts I've already sand blasted or ground the paint/rust off of (using poly-carbonite pads). As I type this, I'm wondering if I've missed an important step in the pre-paint preparation work? If so, it's too late now!

Here's two more questions. I saw a post somewhere about pulling a roll pin by screwing a metal screw into the bottom of the hole, and using a slide hammer to pull the pin out. What do you think of this method vs. driving the pin up and out its hole? Would the speed control lever need to be taken apart if this method works?

I've been working on my 110 for four months; I'm hoping to start the reassembly before winter. I'm located in Nebraska, and I can't count on many mild days once winter really gets started. Plus, the building where it's stored (an aircraft hangar) is not heated, not insulated, and there's too much space around me to heat.

I, too, am enjoying this project. Once it's completed, I may take it to a couple of vintage tractor shows, or maybe I'll use it to pull a float in the neighborhood July 4th parade. What do you intend to use your restored 110 for? Is this your first restoration, or have you done others? I think many people who do one restoration can't stop there, and restore another. They're like potato chips - you can't stop at one. I think it would be fun to restore an old Case or Wheel Horse. But, one project at a time!

Thanks again for the reply and information.

 

Hello:

Thanks to the information you provided, I was able to remove the speed control and mower deck lift levers. I was also able to remove the steering wheel, so I was finally able to remove the pedestal from the frame. I got all the paint, the old hornets nest, oil, grease, and a lot of rust off of it this past weekend.

I couldn't get the roll pin in the speed control lever hub casting to budge, so I drilled through it with a slightly smaller drill bit. Once I'd drilled thru the center of the pin, it was easy to tap out what was left. The gear puller did the job to remove both the speed control lever and the mower deck lift levers from their shafts.

Next, I'm planning to remove the front and rear axle assemblies, and then I'll begin work on the frame. I may have 100% of the sanding and painting completed by the end of September. I regret not keeping a log of the hours I've spent on this project so far - it's probably many more hours than I realize. But, again, it's been a fun project, plus I've had each of my three (mostly) adult kids taking an interest in the project, and helping me when I've needed an extra set of hands.

 

Is there a trick to loosening the nuts holding the tie rods to the steering arm?

 

Here’s are ‘before’ and ‘after’ photos of the battery box on my 1966 Model 110: