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Hey thanks. I had not looked at Brillman Co. before. I may order my harness from them, seems like a fair price.
Yes, I thought so too (on the price). And I got the impression that Brillman is the company that makes it for HAPCO. I could be wrong though. It is a very well made wiring harness. Plus they give you a really good instruction sheet on what goes where.
The only issue I had with Brillman's harness is that I had to lengthen 1 wire. It was the one that runs up to the ignition coil. I don't know if this was their error or my own. I might have ran that wire a different route than it was originally intended. But for the price and quality I'd still say you can't beat Brillman.
 

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Yes, I thought so too (on the price). And I got the impression that Brillman is the company that makes it for HAPCO. I could be wrong though. It is a very well made wiring harness. Plus they give you a really good instruction sheet on what goes where.
The only issue I had with Brillman's harness is that I had to lengthen 1 wire. It was the one that runs up to the ignition coil. I don't know if this was their error or my own. I might have ran that wire a different route than it was originally intended. But for the price and quality I'd still say you can't beat Brillman.

Cory Farr is the one who makes the harnesses for hapco. Brillman wiring harnesses are probably a bit nicer, The last harness I got from Cory the terminal ends that attach to the ignition switch pulled right off because he didn't crimp them tight enough. other than that they are nice harnesses. I have used Brillman many times for my big two-cylinder tractors with no issues at all. I have also used a brand new wiring harness from Deere and had to lengthen that same ignition coil wire.
 

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Cory Farr is the one who makes the harnesses for hapco. Brillman wiring harnesses are probably a bit nicer, The last harness I got from Cory the terminal ends that attach to the ignition switch pulled right off because he didn't crimp them tight enough. other than that they are nice harnesses. I have used Brillman many times for my big two-cylinder tractors with no issues at all. I have also used a brand new wiring harness from Deere and had to lengthen that same ignition coil wire.
That is interesting that you had to lengthen the same wire! I thought I just happened to get an oops harness! I wonder if it's a common mistake with the wire length.
 

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Have any of you checked with Deere? Last I checked, they were still available for the '65-'67 110/112 model years. If memory serves me correctly, I believe they are/were priced right around $30.00.

Brandon is correct by stating that the aluminum heads and carburetors were never painted from the factory. Reason being, paint holds heat and aids in warping.

Bolt heads were not all painted green. I have numerous catalogs, literature, and memorabilia photos that show which bolts are painted and which ones weren't.

If doing touch up painting on an original round fender tractor, John Deere Classic Green will be your closest match. I have argued with other collectors for many years about which type of paint to use on these old round fenders (Classic or Ag) and even though I have proved my point numerous times, they still insist that Ag paint is the only paint/color used on garden tractors, period. Well I say Bullshit!!

**I haven't been on here much lately but I promise I will get on here more often. I like to help out as much as possible and I won't let you guys down in times of need.
 

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Discussion Starter #45
Well I finally got my engine back from the machine shop. I have so.e questions if anyone is still following this thread. Do I need the little mesh breather? On the lifter and the cam do I need to clean them better or use emery cloth on them or the lobes? Also does the spring look correct on the cam and it looks like something was rubbing on the cam weights. I will be posting more now that I can work on it again. Thanks for any and all advice. This is my first engine build but wanted to do it my self.
11180
11181
 

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Well I finally got my engine back from the machine shop. I have so.e questions if anyone is still following this thread. Do I need the little mesh breather? On the lifter and the cam do I need to clean them better or use emery cloth on them or the lobes? Also does the spring look correct on the cam and it looks like something was rubbing on the cam weights. I will be posting more now that I can work on it again. Thanks for any and all advice. This is my first engine build but wanted to do it my self. View attachment 11180 View attachment 11181
The mesh screen material inside the valve/breather cover is intended as an oil trap to help collect oil and drain it back down into the crankcase so that less of it can be expelled out of the cover vent opening. If you opt for a new one these are also on Ebay but I got one for a little less from Brian Miller on his gardentractorpullingtips.com website. He has a site with Extensive info on Kohler engines, parts, and machining services. If you haven't seen his website, check it out, it's Amazing, the Best I've ever seen. The cam lobes can usually be easily polished up by hand with some #600 wet or dry sand paper. If there's score marks to remove use a fine oil stone like a gray/white Arkansas stone to polished them out as best you can by hand. If score marks aren't removable with an Arkansas oil stone, use a slightly coarser oil stone but not any coarser than necessary to remove the score marks. Be sure to Thoroughly clean the cam of any abrasive residue afterward. I looked at my cam since I still have my engine disassembled and my cam spring looks identical to yours. I'm not sure what could cause the rubbing marks on the side of the cam gear. It may possibly be due to excess end play/spacing that may be allowing some contact inside the crankcase. My cam has a .005 shim on the end of the cam pin/shaft. You can check on Brian Miller's site for Kohler factory spec info and can even download a complete Kohler factory service manual. Hopefully others on our site can offer some input or check with a knowledgeable Kohler repair shop. Brian has also always been good about responding to questions I've had. Hope this info helps.
 

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Discussion Starter #47
The mesh screen material inside the valve/breather cover is intended as an oil trap to help collect oil and drain it back down into the crankcase so that less of it can be expelled out of the cover vent opening. If you opt for a new one these are also on Ebay but I got one for a little less from Brian Miller on his gardentractorpullingtips.com website. He has a site with Extensive info on Kohler engines, parts, and machining services. If you haven't seen his website, check it out, it's Amazing, the Best I've ever seen. The cam lobes can usually be easily polished up by hand with some #600 wet or dry sand paper. If there's score marks to remove use a fine oil stone like a gray/white Arkansas stone to polished them out as best you can by hand. If score marks aren't removable with an Arkansas oil stone, use a slightly coarser oil stone but not any coarser than necessary to remove the score marks. Be sure to Thoroughly clean the cam of any abrasive residue afterward. I looked at my cam since I still have my engine disassembled and my cam spring looks identical to yours. I'm not sure what could cause the rubbing marks on the side of the cam gear. It may possibly be due to excess end play/spacing that may be allowing some contact inside the crankcase. My cam has a .005 shim on the end of the cam pin/shaft. You can check on Brian Miller's site for Kohler factory spec info and can even download a complete Kohler factory service manual. Hopefully others on our site can offer some input or check with a knowledgeable Kohler repair shop. Brian has also always been good about responding to questions I've had. Hope this info helps.
Thank you very much. I will check out that website, I had not heard of that site but i will be now. Thanks again.
 

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Discussion Starter #48
I have a question on rebuilding the K181 engine. I ordered a new one Kohler governor gear and it comes with a washer, the instructions say not to use on a K181. Gardentractorpullingtips.com website says to install. The K181 manual really is unclear to me. Does anyone know do I install this washer or not. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #51
Anyone know where i find a flywheel part# 231770, was ready to start my rebuilt engine and noticed the flywheel is cracked in the keyway. No magnets inside. Thanks.
 
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