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Hello members, I am new here and just recently joined because I want to restore my 1966 JD 110 that me and my grandpa 2orked on and got running when I was about 14 years old in 1990. He passed in 91 and I have kept it a garage ever since. I could use any knowledge you could pass on. I want to keep it original. I have seen some really nice restores on here. Is there anywhere to find out all the original details of the tractor, like what parts were green, yellow, black. Also like did come with the sandpaper foot rests or any attachments? I will try to post some pics as I go, it will be a long process. I currently have the engine tore down and being checked out. Thanks for any help or feed back.
 

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Here are a few pictures of my 1963 that we restored. This should give you an idea what color certain parts were originally painted.
 

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Here are a few pictures of my 1963 that we restored. This should give you an idea what color certain parts were originally painted.
Thanks for pics. Looks like everything is green including all bolts. Black muffler and yellow wheels seat and attachment plate which i have just no deck. I have seen some restored with green engines, black engines and green with a non painted aluminum head. Looked to me like my engine was all green, I scratched the paint in several spots and did not find any black under the green. Thanks.
 

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Thanks for pics. Looks like everything is green including all bolts. Black muffler and yellow wheels seat and attachment plate which i have just no deck. I have seen some restored with green engines, black engines and green with a non painted aluminum head. Looked to me like my engine was all green, I scratched the paint in several spots and did not find any black under the green. Thanks.
Hi RacingRob and my welcome aboard to you also. Your '66 110 looks very much original from what I can see. I'm in the process of restoring a '66 110 also as is fellow member Fergus McDaniel who's doing a fine job on his. You're welcome to take a look at photos of my project that I've posted and the 'JD rotisserie' twin engine stand rig that I have mine mounted on for restoration that allows me to rotate it 360 degrees. I'm sure you'll be able to get a great deal of accurate restoration info from our johndeereelfman who is a real expert that we're very fortunate to have as an excellent detail reference along with many of our other members. I had a 110 brand new in 1966 in high school when my dad had a John Deere dealership. I found one to restore in 2018 and I'm enjoying the journey of its restoration. I've been studying my genuine JD owners manuals, brochures, parts books, and service manuals a great deal this past 2 years to try to get good accurate determination of details also. As far as engines are concerned, in '66 engines were all produced painted green from the factory according to all owners manual and service manual photos. Shift lever knobs were always black so that'll be an easy detail to correct. Cylinder heads as best as I can tell were painted green along with the rest of the engine and I've done mine that way. With photos in the manuals all being black and white, parts painted green all show up in the same shade of gray in my belief, to help determine what was painted green. I do see that some of the bolts/fasteners in those photos show up lighter than green parts which I think we can feel confident were either zinc plated or cadmium plated. I've been working on a list of bolts/fasteners that were painted green vs plated and not painted that I'd like to circulate among members for their opinion about bolts and fasteners. Those that I felt very confident were plated and not painted I went ahead and had cadmium plated. Cad and zinc plating look similar in photos but cad plating normally lasts longer than zinc plating. A lot of the fasteners I had cad plated will be painted green where they show as green in the photos but I plated them beforehand for better rust and corrosion resistance before painting them green. You're right on the muffler being black. I'm not quite sure yet if they were originally flat black or semi gloss and I'd like other members to comment on this question. As for finding needed parts, Ebay is a good source if you're not already checking on Ebay and the company Hapco has quite an extensive offering of highly accurate restoration parts for John Deere garden tractors. I'm sure you'll find a lot of great tips and info from members on JDfanatics. Thanks and again welcome aboard.
 

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WELCOME, LOOKS LIKE LOTS OF GOOD ADVICE ALREADY.
RESTORATIONS ARE UP TO EACH AND EVERYONE OF US TO DO AS WE PLEASE.
SO DO IT TO YOUR TASTE YOU'LL BE HAPPIER WITH THE END RESULT.
EBAY, CRAIGSLIST ,MOTHER DEERE AND HAPCO ARE GOOD SOURCES FOR PARTS AND SOMETIMES JUST BEING IN THE RIGHT PLACE AT THE RIGHT TIME HELPS.
HAPCO WILL HAVE MANY OF YOUR DECALS AND SUCH FOR THE DETAILS.
AS FOR PAINT ITS ALL PREFERENCE. I LIKE USING SPRAY CANS AS IT WORKS FOR ME AND MY RESULTS HAVE BEEN VERY GOOD. IF USING THE JD BRAND USE THE AG GREEN FOR THE OLDER UNIT.
TALLMANS MAKES A VERY VERY CLOSE MATCH AND SPRAYS JUST AS WELL IF NOT BETTER THAN THE EXPENSIVE JD BRAND..THE YELLOW I HAVE FOUND ONLY JD IS A MATCH .
GOOD LUCK ON YOUR RESTORATION TAKE YOUR TIME AND ENJOY IT.
AGAIN WELCOME TO THE SIGHT AND REMEMBER IF THERE IS NOT A PIC IT DID NOT HAPPEN AS WE LOVE TO SEE AND SHARE PICS.
 

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Welcome, like Kyle said its your tractor do it how you want. Honestly looking at your pictures if you give that thing a bath, use some rubbing compound and polish and you may be surprised how it looks when your done. Just a suggestion. i like using stainless steel fasteners just to dress it up a little and give it a slightly different look.here are some pictures of my 68 140 I restored a few years ago.
Tire Wheel Car Land vehicle Vehicle
Wheel Tire Land vehicle Vehicle Automotive tire
Wheel Tire Vehicle Lawn mower Motor vehicle
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Tractor looks original except for the gearshift knob. It should be black.
If I remember me and my grandpa did some touch up painting and at that time I am sure it just looked better. I am kinda tore whether I want it 100% original or just do what I like, I kinda like the idea of stainless bolts just to make things pop.
 

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According to mother Deere, pre ‘87 was classic green. I think it was ‘87. The change was when they started the letter prefix models.
 

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CRAIG THAT THING IS VERY NICE.
YOU EVEN PUT ON / SAVED THE DEALER STICKER. EXCELLENT
CAN I ASK WHAT BRAND AND SIZE ARE THE TIRES ON BACK. LEANING THAT WAY FOR MY 140 WITH THAT AIR CLEANER ON IT AND THE TRI-RIBS ON FRONT I THINK IT NEEDS THEM ON BACK.
Thanks Kyle, I had the dealer sticker remade. Thats something My Dad and i thought it would be neat to do on restorations.As far as the tires the fronts are deestone,I forget what backs are I'll have to look.I know they are 23 10.5-12s.
 

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Welcome, like Kyle said its your tractor do it how you want. Honestly looking at your pictures if you give that thing a bath, use some rubbing compound and polish and you may be surprised how it looks when your done. Just a suggestion. i like using stainless steel fasteners just to dress it up a little and give it a slightly different look.here are some pictures of my 68 140 I restored a few years ago. View attachment 8799 View attachment 8801 View attachment 8803
Excellent job on your 140 restoration Craig, one to be real proud of, definitely very well done.
 

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Pics of last hood restoration using spray cans from the 210
This was with the Tallmans
View attachment 8809 View attachment 8811 View attachment 8813 View attachment 8815 View attachment 8817
Very nice paint job with the Tallmans paint Kyle. I wish I was able to use Tallmans but unfortunately CA regulations won't allow it to be shipped to CA so I decided to go with JD spray paint in rattle cans. Its pricey but I'm having great results with it. One thing I can say about the JD paint is that when painting my frame even if I've noted spots that had some slight orange peel, within a few minutes it's leveled out very nicely. It'll leave a nice smooth and glossy finish as long as I've done a good job with surface prep and sanding before top coating.
 
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