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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited by Moderator)
Well i have a secret, i went to an auction. I actually had no intentions of going along, but my sister was going and talked me out of sleeping in on a saturday morning and coming along. I'm glad i did. Because it resulted in me completing my john deere collection (for now.) As we walked to the house through the corner of my i spotted a RF110. As soon as i got my number i went to check it out. It was reasonable condition. With the auctioneer stating that it had cut grass earlier in the summer. I deiced it was coming home with me, within reason.  So the biding started  and kept going and every time i nodded my head i cringed a little but when it was all said and done it was mine. I paid more than my self set top dollar. but not by much. When i got it home and looked up the serial number i wasn't upset any more. 





Everything on the tractor works except the safety switches, which isn't such a huge deal to me but i'll make em functional down the road. Now the tires on the rear aren't what came on em. One had a pretty serious cut in the side wall.



If your not so worried about paint, the harbor fright tire changers do a ok job, especially mounted in a truck.



There are some little things that are wrong with it. The pto belt being installed wrong, haven't figured out why. It was long enough to go on the right way, The muffler isn't correct. 



The other thing that is really wrong is that the left setup is backward. You have to push the lever all the way forward to lift the deck. So i unmounted the deck and did some snooping. at some point the lift rod must of broken. Someone welded a new clevis on it and put it in the wrong hole on the rock shaft reversing everything.





Can anyone tell me, Ive seen some tractors that had cover over the pto pulley and over the shifter, being a 64, is this missing both, one or neither? I'm new to the world of round fenders. I'm also interested pdf copy of the manuals if anyone knows a source.
 

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Chris, you bugger! I was at that sale last Saturday, and that tractor was the only thing I wanted. I even stopped in with the owner three weeks ago to check out the tractor, drive it around, and mow a portion of the yard to try out the mower deck. Oh well, my lose, your gain. I will say one thing though, I was hoping to get it for the price that the bidding started at, especially since the tractor wasn't listed on the sale bill. As a restorer, I can't spend more than that. I wish I would have known you were there, as I would have introduced myself. 

As for you questions, yes, there should be a pto shield. John Deere reproduced three variations of the round fender pto shields, and you will want the first production. For the 1963 thru 1965 110's, the shield was a cover bolted to the side of the main drive housing, and had a small solid rod welded to the inside of the shield, so that the belt wouldn't rub against the edge of the shield. For the 1966 and 1967 110's. the shield was pretty much the same design except that the solid rod was eliminated, and the shield now had a dimple in the corner for the belt protection. For the 1966 and 1967 112's, the shield was the same as the 1966 and 1967 110 shield, except the opening for the belt was enlarged due to the 112's using two pto belts instead of a single belt like the 110's used.

The 1963 and 1964 110's did not have a plastic shifter cover. Instead, the shift pattern was printed on a decal, and placed next to the shifter on the frame. The plastic shift cover was only used on the 1965-1967 110's and 112's. 

Not sure what your plan is for the broken and re-welded lift handle, but if you're interested, I have I think, two or three extra lift handles hanging out in the garage if you want to replace yours. The lift handles for the 1964 and 1965 110's were different than those used on the 1966 and 1967 110's and 112's. The 1963 110 lift handle was shorter, and was mounted higher on the pedestal, and almost impossible to find a replacement. 

The second production of mufflers can be found on ebay quite often, but if you want one that is made to the original first production spec's, you can find them on Hapco Parts website. They carry a wide variety of reproduction pars for all of the round fender 110's and 112's, as well as parts for the 60/70 lawn tractors, 110/112 flat fenders, and the 120/140 flat fenders.

As for the manuals, I'll see what I have available, and will get back to you.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Well that quite a bit of information your imparted there. I'll have to keep an eye out for pto shields in my travels, Thats a no rush kinda deal to me. I'll get one eventually but its not hurting anything at the moment. And the shift cover,  The fact that the bolt holes seemed as if there had never been anything in them and the placement of the shifter decal lead me to believe there never was one. 

As for the lift lever that had been welding. Now this is my first 110. But as far as i can tell everything in that area functions fine. The fact that it's welded doesn't really bother me. I traced the lift being backward to a issue underneath.  I started looking up pictures of  the underside of early round fenders and figured out that the rod that connects the rock shaft in the front of the tractor to the one farther back on the track that actually lifts the deck. The rod there had been cut and welded and installed on the wrong tab of the front rock shaft. So i'll have to decide what i'm gonna do about that, either modify the one that on there now or find a replacement.

The muffler is a different story. Again to me it doesn't have to be exactly what it left the factor with. So i'll look for something that real similar to it. So i'll have to check out ebay. 

Now for a new question. I was riding it around a little today without the mower deck and i noticed something. With out the deck on it. The pto belt spins up wether i have pto engaged or not. Is That a sign that the adjustment is off or do they just do that?
 

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Chris, 

I know you said earlier that you noticed the pto belt being routed or installed wrong, and that is true judging by your picture above. The belt needs to be on the opposite side of the idler pulley. After you have that installed the correct way, move the pto pedal to the on position, same position that is in your picture. While in this position, adjust the idler pulley so you have enough tension to run the belt for the mower deck. You also want to make sure the tension spring running from the mule drive to the front axle of the tractor is hooked up. Once the idler pulley is set right, you can adjust the adjustable belt retainer just below the main tension spring. Loosen the nut and slide or adjust this retainer so that the "L" part of the retainer is about a 1/16" away from the belt, then tighten the nut back up. Move the pto pedal to the off position. With the pedal in the off position, the retainer should be resting against the belt, and if the idler pulley is adjusted correctly, the retainer should keep the belt from turning now while not in operation. 
 

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That's a great little find there what is it's seral number.I believe that is a Wheelhorse muffler on there.I have 2 64's I want to restore one is a early sel and one a later sel
 

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If memory serves me correctly Kenny, I believe the serial number for his tractor was around the 10,000 range. Chris will have to verify that for sure though.

I'm jealous! 
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited by Moderator)
That's a great little find there what is it's seral number.I believe that is a Wheelhorse muffler on there.I have 2 64's I want to restore one is a early sel and one a later sel
Serial number runs in the high 10,000s. I believe this tractor will be the restoration project for this coming winter. It jumped ahead of my 140. Doesn't bother me tho, i like having a tractors that you don't have to worry about scratching.
 

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I have a question. Over the weekend i managed to pick up a 36 snowblower and a 42 blade for this tractor. Both are fairly low serial numbers and are reasonable Condition. The blade is much better off than the blower. but theres a lot less to go wrong with the blade.  The blower is locked up due to either the bearings or the chain, or possibly both. But the auger its self is in really good condition so with a little time it will work again.  

My question is about mounting the snow blade. i have pretty much everything on except the bars that run back to the frame. As best i can figure it, i need to remove the mule drive for the mower deck and blower? If so, just how much to do i need to take apart? along with the what size bolts hold the rear mount bars? i didn't look to closely but i think there are nuts welded to the inside of the frame. 
 

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Chris, you don't have to remove the mule drive in order to mount the blade. Of the two frame braces, one should have an offset bent into it. That offset goes on the right hand side of the tractor, and the bent part goes to the frame mounting hanger. The bend is meant to miss the mule drive. 

Post some pictures of the two when you get the chance. Congrats!
 

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I knew as soon as i posted my last post it was missing pictures. I hate posts without pictures so here they are.  I looked and both left and right arms seem to be the same and none of them look like what the left bar should look like according to jd parts. Does that mean my options are to look for the correct bar or remove the mule drive?









 

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Well, since you don't have the correct right hand brace, then yes, you'll have to remove the mule drive. Removal should be self explanatory as you'll be able to see what needs to come off. The actual mule drive itself however, could be a little difficult. Sometimes the long threaded shaft that holds the mule drive on are rusted fast, whereas other times they'll come right out. The long threaded shaft will need to be removed with an allen wrench. While trying to back this shaft out, lift up on the mule drive a little as a way of taking the weight of the mule drive off of the shaft. The mule drive has two cast tabs that fit up through the frame, and the threaded shaft is what supports the mule drive above the frame. The end of the threaded shaft screws into the cast tab of the mule drive closest to the engine. 

I hope all of that makes sense, and I didn't confuse you. If you need help, let me know.
 

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Well i got the mule drive off, it put up quite the fight tho, the bolt holding it on turned right out. The bushing that mule drive rides on is a different story. It didn't want to come out. It had sized to the mule drive but no to the frame. i did my best to coax it out nicely but eventually resorted to running a tap into the bushing, clamping a vice grip onto it the tap and pounding on the vice grip. It was crude but affective. 





So i managed to get the snow plow mounted up and ready to use if i were gonna use it. More than likely tho in the next couple months this tractor will get disassembled for paint. but in the mean time it sure looks cool



 

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That's a really nice tractor. I wish mine was in that good of shape. I do have a question though, and that is, are the front wheels original? My wheels are much wider than yours. Were your front wheels homemade or off a different tractor, as I have never seen skinny wheels like that before? I'm assuming from your opening post that you bought the tractor with those wheels already on it, or did you change them out like you did for the rear wheels? Hope you don't mind me asking.
 

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That's a really nice tractor. I wish mine was in that good of shape. I do have a question though, and that is, are the front wheels original? My wheels are much wider than yours. Were your front wheels homemade or off a different tractor, as I have never seen skinny wheels like that before? I'm assuming from your opening post that you bought the tractor with those wheels already on it, or did you change them out like you did for the rear wheels? Hope you don't mind me asking.
The narrow front wheels on his tractor are actually original and were factory options. They are 3 3/4" wide and use a 4.80/4.00-8 tire size. They come up every now on ebay for sale, so you have to keep your eyes open for them, as they don't last long on there. You might want to save up some money as well, as they don't usually sell cheap. Most are being bought up by guys who are into pulling heavily. They want them for mounting tri-rib tires on. Depending on condition, they usually sell anywhere between $80.00-$125.00 for a pair. Told you they weren't cheap!
 

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Ok, So it's been a while since I've done an update on the 110. The last time i posted i had mentioned that the 110 would likely be torn apart this winter (which is upon us). Well due some small issues with my 140, it took the 110s place for restoration this winter.  So the 140 is all in pieces, and the 140 was the go to tractor around the house. Well with the first snow of the season today i decided to take advantage of the snow blade and push some snow when i got home from work today, Well all was going great until about 3/4 of the way done cleaning up snow. I had just pushed a plow full of snow into the pile at the corner and i went to lift the plow up and back away when i gave it a good yank on the lift lever and heard a pop, and suddenly the lift rod doesn't do anything, (if it's not one thing...) So I back the tractor all the way back to the garage and crawl under and started looking around. I found that the tab on the rock shaft that front attachment lift rod had cracked and bent, and was no longer pulling on the lift rod. (i'll have pics in the next couple days).  

So my question is, what all needs to happen to get the rock shaft out of a 64' 110rf? I have a welder so i can make the repair, but i just need to get the thing out first. i didn't look to much underneath tonight, i look more tomorrow and see what i can see. But so rough guidelines on what does and doesnt need to come apart would be great. 

Thanks 

- Chris 
 

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Chris, did you ever determine your problem as far as what needs to be removed? I was waiting for you to post some pictures, so I could see the damage. As for removal, you'll have to remove the lifting straps that connect the rock shaft to the lifting handle, and the brackets that hold the rock shaft to the bottom of the frame.

Keep us posted on your results, and post some pictures if possible.
 

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Sorry about late response here, It's been a busy couple of months and haven't really got much accomplished in the ways of tractors in quite a while, Since the last time i posted i fixed  the 110, I have pictures of the damage but not of the repair.



I was able to remove the rock shaft with minimal disassembly of the tractor. I didn't take many pictures during the repair, it was a rush job at the time. Once the rock shaft was out I cleaned off the dirt and grease. Ground away a bunch of old weld, massaged the piece back into its original position. From there i laid in two strong welds on either side if the tab. Installed it back in the tractor and tested it out. It has worked perfectly ever since. 

Shortly after that i picked up a lift assist spring.  Being a young man and working on heavy equipment for a living. I always thought lift assist spring? i'm no wuss. I don't need one of them. Well after installing it i realized just how foolish that was. That lift assist spring totally changes using the front blade, so if you don't have one on your tractor, get one.

I made a couple other small modifications to the tractor since then as well.





First was installing a rubber cutting edge on the tractor. It's 4in bailer belt that you can purchase at the local tractor supply. It makes for a nice smooth non marking squeegee edge, with some longer bolts and using the cutting edge as a clamp it work pretty well, plus there is plenty material left for wear adjustment,  Second was the tail light. I had the light lying around, not really sure where it came from but it worked. Often times by the time i got home from work and started cleaning up snow it was dark, So i added the tail light just as a bit as added safety.

The last thing i did to tractor between my last post and now was replace both drive belts. The tractor always seemed sluggish and under the load of the blade the tractor sometimes would just stop driving until you moved the variator lever and it would jerk back to life and start pushing again. I figured it needed belts and had purchased them shortly after a bought the tractor, just never got around to installing them. After removing the primary belt and working on the secondary belt found some interesting things. The secondary belt pulley and the brake pulley were loose on their shafts. The keys and keyways were intact. So a little loctite on the set screws fixed that problem. I replaced the belt and completed the full variator adjustment procedure. Its a like a completely different tractor, It pushes till the tires break loose in all three gears. 
 

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Wow Chris, you've been busy. Even changed the rear sneakers too! I know we haven't had much snow lately, but if it snows again, try to post us some action shots of you working the 110.  ;)
 

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So now that winter is essentially over, i figured i owed some updates. The 110 did pretty darn good this winter for being 50 years old. I worked it pretty hard, in pretty much every snow storm we had this winter. I didn't get as many pictures as i should of, but usually cleaned up snow after work and light was a premium so had to skip the photo shoots most nights, but i got a couple good action shots.







if you worked the blade just right and had a good head of steam to ya, you could really build the bank up.



with summer coming around it was time to swap back to the summer tires. One of the reasons i bought the tractor was its super narrow front and rear tires. The fronts have been replaced recently. The rears were a different story, i could get my whole hand in the tears in the sidewalls. So i splurged a bit and bought some new firestone 6-12 town and country tires from an online retailer.



They were a bit spendy but the tractor wouldn't have the same look without them. One piece of advice/ disappointment. They are advertised as a tubeless tire. I spent several hours and every trick the internet had to get em mounted to no avail. Removed my brand new valve stems installed tubes in em and they aired right up and have had no issues since.

The difference between a 6-12 and 23x8.50x12



 
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