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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hello, I have a 1974; Model: T0631; Serial: 326666 M; that my great grandpa bought new.
The original literature that I still have says that the Hydraulic lift model is the 10hp model, and the manual lever(which I have) is 8hp.
But looking at the "110/112 Flat Fender Serial Number Breakdown" page makes it look like I have the 10hp engine.
Where on the engine block is the serial tag?
I ask because it is running rough and when i wiggle the wire from the coil to the spark plug, it runs better.
It was running as if it was running out of gas, almost.
I'm looking to replace those components.
Are the coil packs interchangeable between the K181S and K241?

I currently use the mower deck, I've redone the entire lawn at my last home and current home with the beast tiller, pull my kids around the yard in the trailer, and snow blow my drive with the blower. I haven't put on the metal enclosure yet that would keep snow from blowing into my face.
This tractor is absolutely amazing!!!
Although there are 3 mower blades, I do get a thin line of standing grass in the very middle, coming out the back. (Even sharpened/balanced)
I have since bought a new tensioner spring and replaced the belt, so I hope that fixes the issue.
I've thought about replacing the bearings, but they spin with very little resistance.....

My dad rebuilt the transmission maybe 20 years ago? It seems to still shift fine to me!
I do need to check the trans oil and replace the engine oil with NAPA full synthetic. I'll double check the weight.
Grease all of the fittings with synthetic aquatic grade.
Anything that i'm missing?
It ABSOLUTELY needs a new muffler!!! should I go with a smokestack style? Or try to find an OEM style?
None of the parts that i've found, look like the muffler that I have...

When I snow blow, I notice that sometimes the PTO sticks and stays on, even when I disengage it. I assume that is normal when snow gets... somewhere?

The snow blower(surface rust) and whole tractor(cosmetic only) needs to be restored. Oddly enough, my yellow seat cover is fine, but the metal part rusted out... That seems opposite of normal. I just need to fine a place to crimp the cover down to the metal seat. I don't want to accidentally tear the yellow fabric.
I should also probably replace the tires soon.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Welcome to JDFanatics!!
It’s cool that you have your great grandpas tractor. The engine should have a metal tag on the engine tin, not sure where on that model. A JD dealer could tell you what parts are correct.
Keep us informed and we like pictures.
Thanks! Yeah, very thankful that my dad took care of it so well. My great grandpa was a bomb maker in WWII and did a lot of custom stuff, like a weight that goes on the hitch. He weighed maybe 110lbs soaking wet... haha But he added springs EVERYWHERE under it. I'll definitely take some pictures. I feel like I read something about having to crawl under it to check out the tag.... I can't remember... I called one local dealer and the guy seemed to know everything in the world, but not what I needed to know.... haha I haven't called back yet to speak to someone else. This was a few years ago.
 

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Hello, I have a 1974; Model: T0631; Serial: 326666 M; that my great grandpa bought new.
The original literature that I still have says that the Hydraulic lift model is the 10hp model, and the manual lever(which I have) is 8hp.
But looking at the "110/112 Flat Fender Serial Number Breakdown" page makes it look like I have the 10hp engine.
Where on the engine block is the serial tag?
I ask because it is running rough and when i wiggle the wire from the coil to the spark plug, it runs better.
It was running as if it was running out of gas, almost.
I'm looking to replace those components.
Are the coil packs interchangeable between the K181S and K241?

I currently use the mower deck, I've redone the entire lawn at my last home and current home with the beast tiller, pull my kids around the yard in the trailer, and snow blow my drive with the blower. I haven't put on the metal enclosure yet that would keep snow from blowing into my face.
This tractor is absolutely amazing!!!
Although there are 3 mower blades, I do get a thin line of standing grass in the very middle, coming out the back. (Even sharpened/balanced)
I have since bought a new tensioner spring and replaced the belt, so I hope that fixes the issue.
I've thought about replacing the bearings, but they spin with very little resistance.....

My dad rebuilt the transmission maybe 20 years ago? It seems to still shift fine to me!
I do need to check the trans oil and replace the engine oil with NAPA full synthetic. I'll double check the weight.
Grease all of the fittings with synthetic aquatic grade.
Anything that i'm missing?
It ABSOLUTELY needs a new muffler!!! should I go with a smokestack style? Or try to find an OEM style?
None of the parts that i've found, look like the muffler that I have...

When I snow blow, I notice that sometimes the PTO sticks and stays on, even when I disengage it. I assume that is normal when snow gets... somewhere?

The snow blower(surface rust) and whole tractor(cosmetic only) needs to be restored. Oddly enough, my yellow seat cover is fine, but the metal part rusted out... That seems opposite of normal. I just need to fine a place to crimp the cover down to the metal seat. I don't want to accidentally tear the yellow fabric.
I should also probably replace the tires soon.
Great to have you with us. I'm sure you'll get the help and info you need on this website. I see good advice is already coming your way. You'll have many collective years of knowledge and experience available to you and a great willingness to help you out. Having photos of your tractor and of specific details you need info for will be a big help in getting the info you need. It's great to see the enthusiasm you have to get your tractor back in good shape. That alone with the help and info you'll have available to you will take you a long way. Welcome Aboard! :)(y)!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Welcome, def need pics!
Sounds like you might just need a new spark plug wire, ends may ne loose.
I think the info you got was that hydro lifts where only available with the 10hp, not that all 10 hp had hydro lift.
I was taught to not use synthetic engine oil in these old engines.
I didn't think about just replacing the wire. I figured if I can get a new coil for about $20, just replace it. I think I saw a package deal for around $60-$70? But it included extra stuff that I don't think I need.
Makes sense about the hydro lift. The books doesn't say that, only that hydro lift was 10hp, so I guess i assumed non-hydro was 8hp... I'll definitely look into it. Whether the 8hp or 10hp, it seems to have more than enough power!!!
I'll have to look into synthetic for older models. I've just always used full napa(valvoline) oil in everything automotive, so I assumed it would be fine for older engines. I've heard once you go full synthetic, to stay with it, not switch back to regular.


Great to have you with us. I'm sure you'll get the help and info you need on this website. I see good advice is already coming your way. You'll have many collective years of knowledge and experience available to you and a great willingness to help you out. Having photos of your tractor and of specific details you need info for will be a big help in getting the info you need. It's great to see the enthusiasm you have to get your tractor back in good shape. That alone with the help and info you'll have available to you will take you a long way. Welcome Aboard! :)(y)!!!
Thank you, i'm excited to be here. I enjoy learning this stuff. Even in my day job, I feel the best way to learn is from people with the most experience! My original goal was to restore an '86 Chevy Custom Deluxe. Since that is now a no-go, the mower has moved up on my list of things to restore. I love older equipment! Cheaper and easier to fix; and seems to last a LOT longer!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Count the head bolts, K181 has 7, K241 has 8. Go to Kohler engines and you can download the whole K series service manual. Also, is your muffler horizontal or vertical?
The PDF i'm looking at shows 9 for the K241. I haven't take the cover off the engine yet, so i'm not sure what I have. I feel like when I do, it is opening a can of worms. It is so dirty, that i'll want to clean every part of it. Which, now is the probably the time, since snow is melting, and I don't need to mow yet....
Side question, do you use a Precleaner around the air filter? I'm done tilling up my yard, and grass is growing, so hopefully I don't be around as much dust anymore. But just curious, as I haven't used one....
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The PDF i'm looking at shows 9 for the K241. I haven't take the cover off the engine yet, so i'm not sure what I have. I feel like when I do, it is opening a can of worms. It is so dirty, that i'll want to clean every part of it. Which, now is the probably the time, since snow is melting, and I don't need to mow yet....
Side question, do you use a Precleaner around the air filter? I'm done tilling up my yard, and grass is growing, so hopefully I don't be around as much dust anymore. But just curious, as I haven't used one....
View attachment 12617
Your right, nine head bolts.All my old Deere's just have the normal paper filter.
 

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The PDF i'm looking at shows 9 for the K241. I haven't take the cover off the engine yet, so i'm not sure what I have. I feel like when I do, it is opening a can of worms. It is so dirty, that i'll want to clean every part of it. Which, now is the probably the time, since snow is melting, and I don't need to mow yet....
Side question, do you use a Precleaner around the air filter? I'm done tilling up my yard, and grass is growing, so hopefully I don't be around as much dust anymore. But just curious, as I haven't used one....
View attachment 12617
I'm sure you'll find Leonard VanCamp's advice to download the free K181 engine manual very helpful and worthwhile. The copy that I downloaded was a Huge help when I rebuilt mine. If you do decide to do a partial disassembly this winter I'd highly recommend removing the engine shrouds and make sure the cooling fins do not have any excessive blockage from dirt and debris. My engine had a big loss of compression due to a burnt exhaust valve because of clogged cooling fins which caused overheating. In my case clogging was really severe as you can see if you look at the thread that is part of my about updates of my 110 restoration, titled 'Found out where all my compression was going, YIKES'. It's a real eye opener. Regarding the pre cleaner filter for the air cleaner, I bought a new air filter cartridge on Ebay made in U.S.A. that came with a foam pre filter. I think it's a good idea to use it if you get a cartridge that comes with one since there's enough room for it under a K181 air cleaner and it gives your engine an extra level of protection.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
Alright, so I still haven't taken off the cover to see how many bolts there are, but according to the serial number, it is the K241.
For the coil, the PN is AM132453,and the cable to the spark plug in PN HE167-1602. Do i really need to spend $80-$122 for the coil on the online parts store, or is there a better place? I'm hesitant of amazon for these kind of important parts...
 
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